Replace Power Steering Pump
Two OH five (Talk | contribs) (Created page with "A warning anyone now who wants to do this... It's a serious pain in the proverbial, massively. This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first ...") |
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+ | <p>Submitted by - | ||
+ | [http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=57 Darren Railton]</p> | ||
+ | <font size="4"><b>Disclaimer</b></font> | ||
+ | <p>This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how to replace the poser Steering Pump. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this maintenance, consult a qualified mechanic. The author or the GT4 Drivers Club cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage resulting from use of this article.</p> | ||
+ | <p><font size="4"><b>Safety</b></font></p> | ||
+ | <p>When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.</p> | ||
+ | <font size="4"><b>Tools</b></font> | ||
+ | <p>You will need the following:</p> | ||
+ | <ul> | ||
+ | <li>Socket ratchet</li> | ||
+ | <li>Socket breaker bar (around 16 to 24 inches long & does not have the ratchet mechanism)</li> | ||
+ | <li>Socket extender bar (If you have a universal joint to fit on the end it will make the job much easier)</li> | ||
+ | <li>Socket’s sizes 10 to 21mm’s</li> | ||
+ | <li>Spanners sizes 10 to 14mm’s</li> | ||
+ | </ul> | ||
+ | <font size="4"><b>Procedure</b></font> | ||
+ | |||
A warning anyone now who wants to do this... | A warning anyone now who wants to do this... | ||
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This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it. | This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it. | ||
− | + | <div align="center"> | |
− | - Jack | + | <table width="800" bgcolor="#D0F5CB" cellpadding="5" border="2" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#006500" style="font-size: 10pt"> |
− | + | <tr> | |
− | + | <td> </td> | |
− | + | <td>Jack the car up and place it on axle stands, install wheel chocks. Disconnect the battery. Remove 2 front wheels.</td> | |
− | + | </tr> | |
− | + | <tr> | |
− | + | <td> </td> | |
− | + | <td>remove near side front wheel and front arch liner.</td> | |
− | + | </tr> | |
− | + | <tr> | |
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Loosen the lower slider bolt (14mm) and let the pump fall vertical so the belt becomes slack (may need to be pulled vertical by hand if the top 14mm bolt is tight) and remove belt from pulley</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Remove 2 vac lines from the bottom of the pump</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Remove upper feed pipe from the fluid reservoir in the engine bay<br> | ||
+ | (left of your alternator when looking in)</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Remove high pressure banjo bolt on the top of the PS pump(17mm)<br> | ||
+ | This is **QUITE** tricky</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Remove top mpunting bolt to drop the unit down<BR> | ||
+ | '''TIP''' <br> | ||
+ | Swing the unit backwards to gain better access to this one and use a ratcheting 14mm spanner</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>If you haven't removeed the track rod arm then now is the time to do so<br> | ||
+ | you can use a pitman arm puller here or two hammers to shock the ball joint out as shown in this video<br> | ||
+ | [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg Releasing Tapers] | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>If you can get the vac line plastic pipes off (17mm spanner) then that's also a good idea so you avoid snapping the tips off</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Remove any offending brass brackets you need to, these will either be 12mm or 14mm bolts</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Time to make your knuckles bleed<br> | ||
+ | Wriggle that perp out of there with the track rod arm held out the way<br> | ||
+ | Full right hand lock may help you here too</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td>Once removed refit is the reverse procedure</td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td> </td> | ||
+ | <td></td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | </table> |
Revision as of 21:34, 22 August 2012
Submitted by - Darren Railton
Disclaimer
This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how to replace the poser Steering Pump. If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this maintenance, consult a qualified mechanic. The author or the GT4 Drivers Club cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage resulting from use of this article.
Safety
When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.
Tools
You will need the following:
- Socket ratchet
- Socket breaker bar (around 16 to 24 inches long & does not have the ratchet mechanism)
- Socket extender bar (If you have a universal joint to fit on the end it will make the job much easier)
- Socket’s sizes 10 to 21mm’s
- Spanners sizes 10 to 14mm’s
Procedure
A warning anyone now who wants to do this...
It's a serious pain in the proverbial, massively.
This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it.
Jack the car up and place it on axle stands, install wheel chocks. Disconnect the battery. Remove 2 front wheels. | |
remove near side front wheel and front arch liner. | |
Loosen the lower slider bolt (14mm) and let the pump fall vertical so the belt becomes slack (may need to be pulled vertical by hand if the top 14mm bolt is tight) and remove belt from pulley | |
Remove 2 vac lines from the bottom of the pump | |
Remove upper feed pipe from the fluid reservoir in the engine bay (left of your alternator when looking in) |
|
Remove high pressure banjo bolt on the top of the PS pump(17mm) This is **QUITE** tricky |
|
Remove top mpunting bolt to drop the unit down TIP |
|
If you haven't removeed the track rod arm then now is the time to do so you can use a pitman arm puller here or two hammers to shock the ball joint out as shown in this video |
|
If you can get the vac line plastic pipes off (17mm spanner) then that's also a good idea so you avoid snapping the tips off | |
Remove any offending brass brackets you need to, these will either be 12mm or 14mm bolts | |
Time to make your knuckles bleed Wriggle that perp out of there with the track rod arm held out the way |
|
Once removed refit is the reverse procedure | |