Replace Power Steering Pump

From gt4dc_wiki
(Difference between revisions)
Jump to: navigation, search
(Created page with "A warning anyone now who wants to do this... It's a serious pain in the proverbial, massively. This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first ...")
 
Line 1: Line 1:
 +
<p>Submitted by -
 +
[http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=57 Darren Railton]</p>
 +
<font size="4"><b>Disclaimer</b></font>
 +
<p>This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how to replace the poser Steering Pump.
 +
 +
If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this maintenance, consult a qualified mechanic. The author or the GT4 Drivers Club cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage resulting from use of this article.</p>
 +
<p><font size="4"><b>Safety</b></font></p>
 +
<p>When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.</p>
 +
<font size="4"><b>Tools</b></font>
 +
<p>You will need the following:</p>
 +
<ul>
 +
<li>Socket ratchet</li>
 +
<li>Socket breaker bar (around 16 to 24 inches long &amp; does not have the ratchet mechanism)</li>
 +
<li>Socket extender bar (If you have a universal joint to fit on the end it will make the job much easier)</li>
 +
<li>Socket&#8217;s sizes 10 to 21mm&#8217;s</li>
 +
<li>Spanners sizes 10 to 14mm&#8217;s</li>
 +
</ul>
 +
<font size="4"><b>Procedure</b></font>
 +
 
A warning anyone now who wants to do this...  
 
A warning anyone now who wants to do this...  
  
Line 4: Line 23:
  
 
This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it.  
 
This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it.  
 
+
<div align="center">
- Jack your car up (always use axel stands and chock your car!), remove near side front wheel and front arch liner.  
+
<table width="800" bgcolor="#D0F5CB" cellpadding="5" border="2" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#006500" style="font-size: 10pt">
- Loosen the lower slider bolt (14mm) and let the pump fall vertical so the belt becomes slack (may need to be pulled vertical by hand if the top 14mm bolt is tight) and remove belt from pulley.
+
<tr>
- Remove 2 vac lines from bottom.
+
<td>&nbsp;</td>
- Remove upper feed pipe (from reservoir in the bay, left of your alternator when looking in).
+
<td>Jack the car up and place it on axle stands, install wheel chocks. Disconnect the battery. Remove 2 front wheels.</td>
- Remove high px banjo bolt (17mm).
+
</tr>
- Remove top bolt to drop the unit down. Swing the unit backwards to gain better access to this one and use a ratcheting 14mm spanner.
+
<tr>
- If you haven't had to remove the track rod arm then now is the time to do so - you can use a pitman arm puller here or two hammers to shock the ball joint out like this --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg  
+
<td>&nbsp;</td>
- If you can get the vac line plastic pipes off (17mm spanner) then that's also a good idea so you avoid snapping the tips off.
+
<td>remove near side front wheel and front arch liner.</td>
- Remove any offending brass brackets you need to, these will either be 12mm or 14mm bolts.
+
</tr>
- Time to make your knuckles bleed. Wriggle that perp out of there with the track rod arm held out the way. Full right hand lock may help you here too.
+
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Loosen the lower slider bolt (14mm) and let the pump fall vertical so the belt becomes slack (may need to be pulled vertical by hand if the top 14mm bolt is tight) and remove belt from pulley</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Remove 2 vac lines from the bottom of the pump</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Remove upper feed pipe from the fluid reservoir in the engine bay<br>
 +
(left of your alternator when looking in)</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Remove high pressure banjo bolt on the top of the PS pump(17mm)<br>
 +
This is **QUITE** tricky</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Remove top mpunting bolt to drop the unit down<BR>
 +
'''TIP''' <br>
 +
Swing the unit backwards to gain better access to this one and use a ratcheting 14mm spanner</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>If you haven't removeed the track rod arm then now is the time to do so<br>
 +
you can use a pitman arm puller here or two hammers to shock the ball joint out as shown in this video<br>
 +
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg Releasing Tapers]
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>If you can get the vac line plastic pipes off (17mm spanner) then that's also a good idea so you avoid snapping the tips off</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Remove any offending brass brackets you need to, these will either be 12mm or 14mm bolts</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Time to make your knuckles bleed<br>
 +
Wriggle that perp out of there with the track rod arm held out the way<br>
 +
Full right hand lock may help you here too</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td>Once removed refit is the reverse procedure</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td>&nbsp;</td>
 +
<td></td>
 +
</tr>
 +
</table>

Revision as of 21:34, 22 August 2012

Submitted by - Darren Railton

Disclaimer

This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how to replace the poser Steering Pump. If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this maintenance, consult a qualified mechanic. The author or the GT4 Drivers Club cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage resulting from use of this article.

Safety

When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.

Tools

You will need the following:

Procedure

A warning anyone now who wants to do this...

It's a serious pain in the proverbial, massively.

This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it.

  Jack the car up and place it on axle stands, install wheel chocks. Disconnect the battery. Remove 2 front wheels.
  remove near side front wheel and front arch liner.
  Loosen the lower slider bolt (14mm) and let the pump fall vertical so the belt becomes slack (may need to be pulled vertical by hand if the top 14mm bolt is tight) and remove belt from pulley
  Remove 2 vac lines from the bottom of the pump
  Remove upper feed pipe from the fluid reservoir in the engine bay
(left of your alternator when looking in)
  Remove high pressure banjo bolt on the top of the PS pump(17mm)
This is **QUITE** tricky
  Remove top mpunting bolt to drop the unit down

TIP

Swing the unit backwards to gain better access to this one and use a ratcheting 14mm spanner
  If you haven't removeed the track rod arm then now is the time to do so

you can use a pitman arm puller here or two hammers to shock the ball joint out as shown in this video
Releasing Tapers

  If you can get the vac line plastic pipes off (17mm spanner) then that's also a good idea so you avoid snapping the tips off
  Remove any offending brass brackets you need to, these will either be 12mm or 14mm bolts
  Time to make your knuckles bleed

Wriggle that perp out of there with the track rod arm held out the way

Full right hand lock may help you here too
  Once removed refit is the reverse procedure
 
Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Club Documents
Toolbox