Replace Power Steering Pump
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Latest revision as of 14:53, 4 February 2017
Submitted by - V1 Rotate V2
Disclaimer
This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how to replace the poser Steering Pump. If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this maintenance, consult a qualified mechanic. The author or the GT4 Drivers Club cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage resulting from use of this article.
Safety
When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.
Tools
You will need the following:
- Socket ratchet
- Socket’s sizes 10 to 14mm’s
- Spanners sizes 10 to 14mm’s
Procedure
A warning anyone now who wants to do this...
It's a serious pain in the proverbial, massively. With an extra side of pain
This is a step by step guide on how to do it - make sure you read it all first before you have at it.
Bear in mind that you will get ATF all over the place so put a drip pan down and have a spare litre to top it back up again once the job is complete.
When you do fill it back up, run the engine and turn from lock to lock until all the air is out of the system and the level remains constant.
| Jack the car up and place it on axle stands, install wheel chocks | |
| remove off side front wheel and arch liner. (10mm bolts) | |
| Loosen the lower belt tension adjuster bolt (14mm) and let the pump fall vertical so the belt becomes slack It may need to be pulled vertical by hand if the top 14mm bolt is tight |
|
| Remove belt from pulley | |
| Remove 2 vacuum lines from the bottom of the pump | |
| If you can get the vacuum line plastic pipes off (17mm spanner) then that's also a good idea so you avoid snapping the tips off | |
| Remove upper feed pipe from the fluid reservoir in the engine bay (left of your alternator when looking in) |
|
| Remove high pressure banjo bolt on the top of the PS pump(17mm) This is **QUITE** tricky |
|
| Remove top mounting bolt to drop the unit down TIP |
|
| If you haven't removeed the track rod arm then now is the time to do so you can use a pitman arm puller here or two hammers to shock the ball joint out as shown in this video |
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| Remove any offending brass brackets you need to, these will either be 12mm or 14mm bolts | |
 |
Time to make your knuckles bleed Wriggle that perp out of there with the track rod arm held out the way |
| Once removed refit is the reverse procedure | |
Notice here I had the drive shaft, hub and suspension out the way, this helped me but you can get it out the way described above I just happened to be doing other work on the car.
Good luck if you try this too!
