GT-Four Buyers Guide

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What to look out for
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<H3>Chassis - Visual Inspection</H3>
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<UL>
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<LI>Check front of car, ensure there are no additional weld points any part
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of the chassis.  If any are found, this is usually an indication of
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frontal impact.  A dead giveaway are imprints on the radiator.
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<LI>Jack up car and check swaybar mounts.  In some situations, i.e. the car
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going into/over a ditch, etc.  the mounting points will be compressed,
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indicating damage to the undercarriage/steering assembly.  They can be
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pulled out, but usually will show some crumpling.
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<LI>Above the viscous diff., check for marks that the swaybar is
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touching/hitting/rubbing the body of the car (the curve that goes over the
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diff and propeller shaft.  This is also an indication that the
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undercarriage may have suffered damage.
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<LI>Check steering rack and pinion mounting points.  In a frontal impact,
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these have a tendency to crack, and will later break, requiring
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re-welding.
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<LI>Check rear of car, pull up carpeting and look for additional welding.
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</UL>
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<BR>
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<H3>Chassis - Drive test</H3>
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<UL>
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<LI>Find a nice stretch of empty road (make sure!!), take the car to 35 km/h
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and jam the brakes hard.  If the chassis has been damaged, it is unlikely
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that it may be repaired perfectly.  The car will usually throw to the
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right or left.  If the car is equipped with ABS, you should feel it kick
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in as a regular series of pulses against your foot.  If not, and the
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wheels jam, then the ABS is not working.
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<LI>Listen for any knocking or creaking sounds coming from under the car.
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This will be an indication that the bushings need changing.
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</UL>
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<BR>
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<H3>Engine</H3>
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<UL>
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<LI>Start engine with bonnet up.  Listen for initial knocking sound on
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start-up.  This is an indication of worn crankshaft, or con-rod
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bushings/bearings.  As the engine runs, and oil gets to these parts, the
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noise will dissapear, or get very much softer.  Easy to miss if engine is
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hot.
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<LI>Check engine for leaks, excessive oil etc.
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<LI>Locate the diagnostic port (left side of the engine compartment, close to
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the windshield).  Jump points TE1 and E1.  Start engine, and check for
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codes.  The check engine light should flash at a steady 4 pulses per
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second.  Should codes be present, then discharge ECU by pulling out EFI
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fuse, count to 10, and reinstall it.  Repeat procedure again.
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<LI>Ensure that no smoke, no matter how light comes out of the exhaust.  This
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must be done when the engine is hot.  White smoke is a possible
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indication of turbo trouble.  But if it's a damp day, don't mistake water
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vapour for smoke.  Take the car for a spin, boost up the turbo and hold
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for 10 - 15 seconds at max boost.  Then check again for excessive smoke.
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<LI>Engine should run steadily at 800 to 1000 rpm, without missing.  Let car
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idle for 15 minutes, and check for excessive smoke from exhaust.  This is
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an indication of valve seal/guide condition.  If seals or guides are worn,
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then when the car is hot, oil will drip down into the cylinder and burn
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up with combustion.
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<LI>Take the car for a spin, boost up the turbo.  Try and hold boost
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aggressively.  This will force a rise in pressure under the cam cover,
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forcing oil through worn valve seals and guides.  Symptoms are that the
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ignition will begin to miss, as the plugs foul, and you may have a little
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smoke from the exhaust.  When you stop the car, one whiff of the exhaust
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gasses should already tell you if oil is burning.  (But don't over-do it.....ha ha).
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<LI>Turbo should spool up smoothly to end of the stock boost gauge from 3rd
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gear onwards.  At lower gears, the stock ECU limit boost below max.
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</UL>
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<BR><H3>Drivetrain</H3>
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<UL>
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<LI>From stationary, accelerate suddenly (preferably forward), and see if you
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can feel a thud, or hear a clunk from the rear.  If you feel a thud, this
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indicates that the LSD mounting may be worn, or that there is freeplay in
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the LSD itself, or that the rear drive shafts may require rebuild.  An
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audible clunk is usually a dead giveaway.
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<LI>Take the car up to a steady 80 - 100 km/h.  Listen if the LSD begins to
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hum.  Also an indication that the LSD may require rebuild.
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If you feel a steady vibration through your seat, this is an indication
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that the propeller shaft bearings/mounts may be worn.
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<LI>Do a couple of tight figure eights, and see if you hear any noise from
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the drive shafts.
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<LI>The gear shift in a GT4 has a tendency to be a little sloppy.  But should
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shift into each gear smoothly without any grinding, or stiffness.  This is
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an indication of the condition of the gearbox synchros.  Accelerate hard
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again and hold rpm above 5000 for 2 kms or more.  Then stop the car and
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see if you can smell the clutch burning.
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</UL>
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<P>Another point to check is the timing belt which should be changed every 60,000 miles.

Revision as of 20:50, 23 August 2011

Contents

Chassis - Visual Inspection


Chassis - Drive test


Engine


Drivetrain

Another point to check is the timing belt which should be changed every 60,000 miles.

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