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<pages>
<page pageid="192" ns="0" title="Rebuild Rear Diff Mount">
<revisions>
<rev xml:space="preserve">Submitted by -
[http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=9 Steve Pritchard]
<p align="center"><font color="#FF0000">** This article has pictures from the ST205 but the procedure is the same for all the GT4s **</font></p>
='''Safety'''=
When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.
Always read and understand the directions on any chemical products you use. Pay particular attention to any handling and/or PPE directions
='''Why would I need to repair a differential mount'''=
The chief reason for repairing a differential mount is the failure of the original one. This is characterised by a heavy clunk from the rear of the car when applying power or lifting off the throttle.
Some people may wish to upgrade it as part of a significant power increase program in order to prevent the standard mount overflexing and causing symptoms like a failed mounting
='''Tools'''=
Sharp "craft" knife
Prybar
='''Materials'''=
Polyester resin and release agent. I used Polytek EasyFlo 65 shoreD. This is perhaps a little on the hard side for a simple replacement and something with a slightly lower shore might prove better - 80-90 Shore A is probably more appropriate
Paint/preparation materials of your choice
='''Procedure'''=
<div align="center">
<table class="decorated collapsing">
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Remove old mount from car (see how to coming soon)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Using a marker of some description (I used Tippex) make some index marks from the rubber to the inner and outer metalwork. You will need these later to partially re-assemble the mount</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_01.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>Using a prybar (I found a 3/8&quot; socket extension bar to be about right) lever the central metal section from the outer frame. I did this by sticking the prybar through one of the two differential bolt holes and twisting the centre while holding the outer frame rigid with an adjustable. NB the photo here shows the completed mount as I forgot to take one of the original</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_02.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>After grunting and groaning you should hopefully be left with 3 pieces, the rubber and inner and outer frames. Note that you need to take some care in the disassembly process. You need the rubber in one piece for the next stage</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>You will notice that on both edges the rubber has a tongue which engages in a groove in both the inner and outer frames. Using a craft knife CAREFULLY remove this tongue from both sides of the rubber. You should now find that you can re-assemble the mount relatively easily</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_03.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>>Re-assemble the mount and line up your match marks to get the original spacing back. When it's all lined up screw it down. Carefully remove the rubber and draw round the inner and outer frames so that you can re-position them later.
You can see my outlines in the picture. You can now unscrew everything and prep and paint the metalwork.
You can see here that I used a flat sheet of melamine board as the base. I think this could be improved on (detailed later) but as I know this works this is what I have detailed.
Personally I wire brushed off the worst of the rust from the metalwork, hit it with a coat of KuRust then a coat of
Hammerite. The result could be better though and is best described as a triumph of function over form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_04.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>Coat the base with a suitable release agent. The product I used has a specific release agent or suggests the use of
Vaseline. Since I had neither I actually used a thin layer of teflon silicon grease. This worked fine for me but is not exactly following manufacturers instructions so may not work for other polyurethane resins
Once you have applied release agent re-assemble the diff mount using the outlines you drew earlier. You can see my assembled setup here, with the
shiny grease evident in the bottom
Here is where I made a bit of a mistake. I used a little extra grease round the outline of both metal bits hoping that this would form a seal between the metal and the board when everything was screwed down. This proved not to be the case and I suffered some leakage in the next step. I think this is where my improved method would work but, again, as I have not tried it I have not described it.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_05.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>Mix the polyurethane resin following the manufacturer's instructions and carefully pour it into the void where the rubber was on the original mounting. I guessed the amount by eye but would estimate that 225 mL would be plenty.
You should end up with something that looks like the picture, hopefully without the leakage that's evident in this picture. Leave the mount to cure following manufacturer's instructions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_06.jpg|thumb]]<br>
[[File:diff_mount_rebuild_07.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>The finished article after a little trimming of the leaked resin</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>Possibly improved method</b></p>
<p>You can see from the final pictures that the &quot;pour side&quot; has a couple of mm gap between the resin and edge of the metal framework while the other side is flush with the metalwork. This is an obvious side effect of the method I used</p>
<p>I also had some leakage issues between the metal and the melamine board I used. I was fortunate that the cured resin released quite easily from the shiny melamine otherwise I would have had quite a mess</p>
<p>I think this could be improved significantly. If I were to do this again I would try the following :-<br>
Instead of using hard board for the base I would try using a thinnish sheet of stiff foam covered by a
shiny fablon type plastic coating. This needs to be put down before you draw the outline of the disassembled mount</p>
<p>The rest of the process is as per the description. I believe that this method would achieve two things. <br>
You should end up with the backside having a little gap between metal and resin as per the top side.<br>
You should get a good seal between the metalwork and the plastic since the rubber will take up any irregularities. This ought to stop the leakage issue I had</p>
<p><b>Other remarks</b></p>
<p>The method is essentially the same for renovating/upgrading other polyurethane mounts. Real world tests have shown that using this 65 shore
compound for engine mounts, results in a great deal of engine vibration through the bodywork. While engine mounts can be upgraded using this method lower shore polyurethane is an absolute must!</p>
[[Category:Drivetrain maintenance]]</rev>
</revisions>
</page>
<page pageid="95" ns="0" title="Remove front bumper">
<revisions>
<rev xml:space="preserve"><p>Submitted by -
[http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=57 Darren Railton]</p>
<font size="4"><b>Disclaimer</b></font>
<p>This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how I removed the front bumper. If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this maintenance, consult a qualified mechanic. The author or the GT4 Drivers Club cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage resulting from use of this article.</p>
<p><font size="4"><b>Safety</b></font></p>
<p>When working on a car always use the appropriate safety equipment, chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. When working underneath a raised vehicle always use axle stands.</p>
<font size="4"><b>Tools</b></font>
<p>You will need the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Socket ratchet</li>
<li>Socket breaker bar (around 16 to 24 inches long &amp; does not have the ratchet mechanism)</li>
<li>Socket extender bar (If you have a universal joint to fit on the end it will make the job much easier)</li>
<li>Socket&#8217;s sizes 10 to 21mm&#8217;s</li>
<li>Spanners sizes 10 to 14mm&#8217;s</li>
<li>Selection of Phillips &amp; Straight end screw drivers in a selection of sizes</li>
<li>Can of WD40 / Plusgas for those hard to remove bolts</li>
</ul>
<font size="4"><b>Procedure</b></font>
<div align="center">
<table class="decorated collapsing">
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Jack the car up and place it on axle stands, install wheel chocks. Disconnect the battery. Remove 2 front wheels.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:bumper_removal_01.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>Looking inside the wheel arch you will see 3 or 4 screws/bolts that hold the plastic trim to the front wing, remove these,
then pull the trim ajar &amp; away (This will take some force to do but the plastic is not brittle so it will just bend)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:bumper_removal_02.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>Now sliding your hand inside the gap between the trim &amp; the wing, you should be able to feel the 3 nuts &amp; bolts that
hold the front bumper on</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:bumper_removal_03.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>This picture gives you an idea where the nuts are located. Using the Socket ratchet with the extender bar fit the universal
joint &amp; then remove the 3 bolts, if they are stiff use a bit of WD40 &amp; let it soak in for a while, then try to remove again (Note: These
nuts &amp; bolts are metal &amp; not plastic)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:bumper_removal_04.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>Remove the front number plate, the look underneath the top of the plastic grill, in 3 locations you will find 2 plastic clip
pins, pull these out with a pair of pliers. On the UK car these are Philips head clips that are turned 1/4 to release</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[File:bumper_removal_05.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>2 clips by power steering cooler</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
[[File:bumper_removal_06.jpg|thumb]]</td>
<td>2 clips by gearbox oil cooler</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Working from one side of the car remove all of the clips &amp; bolts that secure the front row of trays to the bottom of the
wings &amp; bumper, pull the trays clear of the car</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Reach up from underneath &amp; unplug the fog light connectors</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Unscrew the indicator units &amp; pull free from bumper (Twist out the electrical connector &amp; bulb then push them back
through the bumper)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Open the bonnet &amp; remove the bolts that hold the top of the bumper to the chassis (Follow the line of the black rubber strip)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td><b>NOTE:</b> For this next part you may want someone to help to avoid scratching the paint work. Pull the bumper square from the front of the car, be careful not to pull at different angles &amp; scratch the paint work. When the bumper is removed you may want to stick some masking tape on the bumper to wing mating surface to avoid scratching the paintwork when re-fitting the bumper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>Re-fitting is the reverse of removal</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div>
[[Category:chassis_maintenance]]
[[Category:Cosmetic_modification]]</rev>
</revisions>
</page>
</pages>
</query>
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